Detailed
Trip Notes
Meals
France is well known for its
fine food, and so on this trip we have moved away from including all meals
in the trip price. All of the lodgings have a variety of fixed dinner menus
ranging from $7.00-$40.00. As outdoor adventure guides and not
restaurantuers we are going to allow you to choose your meals, rather than
us making that decision for you. Therefore, all dinners and five lunches are
not included in the trip price allowing you to fully enjoy the fine foods of
France.
Day 1
We meet this morning in Bordeaux and begin our journey to the
Perigord Noir. This is the heart of wine country and we will pass many
vineyards on our way. Perhaps we will opt to visit on of them along the
way. What better introduction to France can we ask for. By mid afternoon
we will have arrived in the Vezere valley and the small village of Sergeac.
We will settle into the
Auberge Castel Merle. The inn has been in the Castanet family for the past
three generations. In addition to the inn the family is also very involved
with the local archeology site and museum where we can begin to learn about
the area and prehistoric man. Welcome. Lodging – Auberge Castel Merle
Day 2
We will leave the inn by foot this morning and enjoy a quite wooded walk
along the river to our van and the put in on the Vezere River. At first the
river is broad and in an open valley, but soon it tightens up and like a
ribbon winds through the woods.
By mid afternoon we have paddled our way back to Sergeac and Castel Merle.
We will have time this afternoon to visit the prehistoric site at Castel
Merle. Here we will get a glimpse of life over 25,000 years ago with cliff
dwellings, artifacts and amazing paintings and carvings.
We look forward to returning to the inn in the late afternoon and perhaps
going for a short walk or enjoying the spectacular view of the river and
valley from the quiet gardens. We will gather for dinner and again enjoy
some of Chris’s fine cooking.
Lodging – Auberge Castel Merle
Day 3
After breakfast in the gardens and packing our bags we will once
again walk down to the river to our waiting canoes and continue down the
Vezere. We settle into the rivers gentle pace as it weaves its way through
this tranquil valley. Mid day finds us nearing St Leon-sur-Vezere. Nestled
in a bend on the river, this is a charming village. Is was once a stopping
point for pilgrims on their way to Compostela and the Romanesque church
stands over the river like a lone sentry. We will take time to stretch our
legs here to enjoy exploring the village. We will find some small cafes
that are ideal lunch spots as well.
After a leisurely lunch we will return to our canoes and the river. This
afternoon the river gently guides us by La Roque St Christophe. This is a
sheer cliff a half-mile in length, which is sliced into five shelves, one of
which is the largest terrace in Europe. At one point in history these tiers
were home to up to 3,000 people. It is truly a fascinating place and we will
leave our canoes by the bank and take time to visit this very interesting
site.
By late afternoon we have paddled ourselves to Les Eyzies, ‘the capital of
Prehistory.’ It is near here that the bones of Cro-Magnon man were found,
and it is home to the Musee Nationale de Prehistorie. We will settle into
the Hotel les Glycines. Located near the river we have an easy take out and
can look forward to unwinding from a full day of activity with a glass of
wine in the garden. Lodging – Hotel les Glycines
Day 4
We have planned a leisurely morning today allowing you the option of
relaxing at the hotel, exploring the village shops or visiting the museum.
Tucked under the overhanging cliffs that dominate les Ezyies the museum is
housed in a 16th century castle. The museum does a very good job
of enabling visitors to form an idea of the chronology of the distant past,
and provides a basis of comparison of the cave paintings in different
grottos.
By mid day we will have regrouped and are ready to continue our adventure.
We may opt for a short paddle on the Vezere or perhaps a hike in the nearby
hills. Which ever we do our journey will continue to Sarlat and then on to
Rocamadour. Sarlat provides an opportunity to wander through the narrow
alleyways and cobbled streets. The streets are a living museum of
architecture and the ambiance of the shops and cafes is mesmerizing.
From the charm of Sarlat to the incredible setting of Rocamadour is how we
will end the day. Rocamadour appears to defy gravity as it clings to a
vertical cliff. The red roofed buildings with pale amber walls all seem to
be clambering for space as a majestic castle sits on top over looking the
valley. This is one of the great centers of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages.
We will enjoy an evening stay at the Hotel du Lion d’Or. Located in the
heart of this tiny village we will have plenty of opportunity to wander the
streets and follow the footsteps of the medieval pilgrims that have passed
by here before us.
Lodging – Hotel du Lion d’Or
Day 5
We plan an early morning
departure today allowing us a full day of paddling on the Cele. The next
few days we will be traveling in the Lot and Cele valleys. We will put in
near Figeac and the 15th century Chateaux Ceint d’Eau. This
narrow valley provides ideal canoeing, where overhanging cliffs continue to
remind us of life long ago. This enchanting little river offers easy quick
water, stunning scenery and quaint villages around every bend. Espagnac-Ste-Eulalie
is a tiny hamlet watched over by a striking bell tower. It is a wonderful
spot to get out of our canoes and wander through for a bit.
By late afternoon we will have canoed to the small village of Brengues and
the Hotel de la Vallee. Nestled right on the banks of the river this tiny
little inn has been welcoming travelers for many years. We will leave our
canoes near the river for the evening and enjoy a relaxing evening in this
quaint tiny hamlet.
Lodging – Hotel de la Vallee
Day 6
We continue where we left
off yesterday by walking back to the river and our canoes to continue down
the Cele. Similar to yesterday the river dances and weaves its way through
this charming wooded valley. We will again have the opportunity to stop
along the way and visit quiet riverside hamlets and enjoy lunch at a small
café along the way.
By days end we will have paddled nearly the length of the Cele and find
ourselves in the village of Cabrerets. This small village is dotted with
Chateaux including Chateaux du Diable and Chateaux de Cabrerets. Dating
from the 14th century these chateaus are rich in history from the
100 year war and were home to Dukes and Lords of Aquitane.
Lodging – Auberge de la Sagne
Day 7 Before getting back
in our canoes this morning we have planned time to visit Grotte du Pech-Merle.
This is perhaps one of the finest prehistoric painted caves still open to
the public. The cave is decorated with magnificent Upper Palaeolithic works
of art. There are over 80 drawings of animals including mammoths, horses
and bison. It is both a feast for the eyes and the mind. To try and imagine
life over 25,000 years ago is really quite amazing.
After our time at Pech-Merle we will head back to the river and our awaiting
canoes. We will continue down the last section of the Cele and out to the
Lot. The two rivers join and continue their path in a charming and somewhat
larger valley. We will end our day near Bouzies and then have the option of
walking or being shuttled to our evening lodging in San Cirq-Lapopie.
The setting of St Cirq is spectacular, it hovers 330 feet above the Lot,
overlooking the kind of dramatic sheer cliffs of Romantic poets. Its
architecture is pure, harmoniously medieval, and meticulously preserved.
The narrow twisting streets are home to art galleries, wine shops, cafes and
small lodges. There is a breathtaking viewpoint of the river and
surrounding lands from a rocky perch high above the abbey. We will settle
into our lodge for two evenings given us plenty of time to discover this
magical village and all it has to offer.
Lodging – La Pelissaria
Day 8
Today we have some choices.
Some may choose to take an easy day, have a late breakfast, wander through
the various art galleries and shops before enjoying a late lunch at an
outdoor café where you can watch the world go by.
Others my choose to don there walking shoes and enjoy one of many walking
choices around St Criq. One walk will lead us down to the river Lot where
we will find our canoes for another enjoyable section of the Lot.
Whatever our choice today we will gather in the evening to share stories of
the day, a fine bottle of wine and another wonderful meal.
Lodging – La Pelissaria
Day 9
We will leave the Lot today and
journey on to the Dordogne. On our way to this enchanting valley we may opt
for a stop at one of the many small vineyards in this area. These small
vineyards produce some of the finest red wines in the region and maintain a
high quality of production.
We plan to put in near Calviac and by the end of the day we will find
ourselves pulling our canoes out at Carjac and finishing our day in the
craggy cliff village of Domme. Along the way we will have enjoyed a
splendid section of river and had time to stop and visit several chateauxs
including Castlenaud and Les Milandes, the recent home of Josephine Baker.
Overlooking a wide area of the river valley and the surrounding countryside,
Domme was an obvious site for a bastide, or fortified village. Domme,
built in the 12th century, still has most of its walls and three
fortified gateways. It was such a natural fortress that many regarded it as
impregnable.
We will enjoy the evening in a small 15th century hotel located
right in the heart of this medieval village. From our central location we
will have the opportunity to explore the small shops and grand overlooks.
Lodging – Relais du Chevalier
Day 10 This morning we can
opt to walk down to the river to join our canoes, or for those that would
like to linger a bit longer in the village can be shuttled down to the
river’s edge. Whatever the choice, by mid day we will be back in our canoes
and continuing our journey down the Dordogne.
The valley continues to unfold in front of us as we paddle leisurely
downstream. From a distance the riverside village of La Roque Gageac comes
into view. The golden stone houses seem to be piled one on top of the other
as they climb the face of their protective cliff. This village beckons to
be explored and so we may opt to pull our canoes a shore and take some time
to discover it on our own. This pleasant village offers enchanting views of
the river from its upper streets as well as a fine period house with a round
tower dating back to the 16th century. Lunch at a small outdoor
café is just the right touch before getting back in the canoes to continue
on our way.
Our final stop today along the river is Beynac and the Hotel Bonnet. Once
again the hotel is located right on the river so we do not have far to take
our canoes. Beynac castle stands majestically over the village and river
like a feudal lord. The energetic can opt to walk up to the castle, while
others may choose to catch a ride. Few places can give a person a stronger
sense of the medieval past that the Chateaux de Beynac. As you wander the
castle grounds it is easy to feel yourself being transported back nearly one
thousand years. You can retrace the footsteps of Richard the Lionheart and
learn how he captured the original 12th century fortress.
The late afternoon sun reflects off the looming limestone cliffs and cast
soft hues of color across the river. It is an enchanting sunset and nowhere
better enjoyed than from an outdoor café enjoying a glass of wine and good
food.
Lodging – Hotel Bonnet
Day 11
One more day to enjoy the
Dordogne and all it has to offer. The valley begins to open up today and we
start to leave behind the cliff side villages and remnants of ancient man.
However the river continues to unveil its magic and entice us to return to
discover more of this enchanting place.
We will enjoy our last evening in St Emilon. Set in a natural amphitheatre
surrounded by it famous vines, St Emilon is a gem, a lovely town mellowed to
the color of old piano keys. A favorite of medieval popes and English
kings, it has been restored too much of its old elegance.
Lodging – Auberge de la Commanderie
Day 12 We return to Bordeaux today
where we will say our final goodbyes before going our separate ways. We
will have time to look back on our journey and reflect on all that we
enjoyed. Four magical rivers offering an abundance of canoeing, prehistoric
history and medieval villages stimulate our minds and fine wines and
regional cuisine satisfy our gastronomical needs.
Canoe France Trip Notes
Canoe France is rated II-B, which is easy to moderate, according to our trip
grading system. We will be paddling on up to class II rivers, and hiking in
open fells and mountains, 2 to 7 miles per day, following footpaths and
carrying only a daypack. The paddles and hikes will range from 4 to 9 hours
in length, with stops for picnic lunches. Elevations will not be high, but
the hiking terrain can be rugged, with optional steep climbs over uneven
ground.
This trip is appropriate for anyone in good heath, leading an active outdoor
lifestyle. Generally the more difficult sections are optional and often we
have more strenuous extensions available for those who desire a longer day.
Please feel free to call our office, and often you can discuss the trip with
a guide who has lead this trip and be able to share thoughts with you.
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